From the sacred temples of Gorakhpur and the birthplace of Lord Buddha at Kushinagar to the Himalayan landscapes of Pokhara and the spiritual landmarks of Kathmandu, our ten-day journey through Nepal was an experience of devotion, discovery and adventure. While Muktinath remained beyond our reach because of road disruptions, the journey offered many unexpected experiences, some wonderful and a few challenging, that made it memorable in its own way.
Day 1: Mumbai to Gorakhpur — The Journey Begins
Our Nepal journey began in Mumbai. After an early breakfast, we proceeded to Mumbai Airport to board our flight to Gorakhpur. On reaching Gorakhpur, we checked into our hotel and took some time to settle down. Since there was no immediate sightseeing planned, we decided to explore the surrounding area in the evening. Walking around an unfamiliar city is always an interesting way to begin a holiday. We got a feel of the local atmosphere, explored the nearby shops and eventually settled down at a restaurant for dinner. It was a relaxed beginning to a journey that would soon take us across the international border into Nepal, through its mountains, temples and historic destinations.
Mumbai Airport
Day 2: Kushinagar, Gita Press and Gorakhnath Mutt — A Day of Heritage and Spirituality
The second day was devoted to exploring the religious and cultural heritage of Gorakhpur and its surroundings. We began with an excursion to Kushinagar, an important destination in Buddhist history.
Kushinagar — The Land of Mahaparinirvana
Kushinagar is one of the most sacred destinations for Buddhists across the world. It is traditionally regarded as the place where Gautama Buddha attained Mahaparinirvana, or final nirvana, after his death. The Mahaparinirvana Temple, with its magnificent reclining Buddha statue, is among the most significant attractions here. The serene expression of the Buddha and the peaceful atmosphere inside the complex create a deeply contemplative experience. We also explored the monasteries and heritage sites in the area. Different Buddhist countries have established monasteries here, each reflecting its own architectural traditions and cultural interpretation of Buddhism. The peaceful surroundings and prayerful atmosphere make Kushinagar a destination that appeals not only to devotees but also to anyone interested in history and spirituality.
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| Kushinagar |
Gita Press, Gorakhpur
After returning to Gorakhpur and having lunch, we visited the famous Gita Press in the evening. Established in 1923, Gita Press is one of India's most renowned publishers of Hindu religious literature. Its publications, particularly the Bhagavad Gita, Ramcharitmanas, Puranas and other religious texts, have reached millions of households. The visit was especially interesting because just opposite to Gita Press they have kept a museum which they call it temple as old paintings and printing machines, etc. are on display which is excellent. It is not merely a printing establishment; it represents a century-long commitment to publishing and spreading India's religious and philosophical heritage.
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| Gita Press Temple |
Gorakhnath Mutt
Our next stop was Gorakhnath Mutt, one of the most prominent religious institutions in northern India. Dedicated to Guru Gorakhnath, the revered saint associated with the Nath tradition, the temple complex has considerable religious and historical significance. Its architecture, shrines and peaceful atmosphere make it an important centre of pilgrimage.
Gorakhnath Mutt
Day 3: Gorakhpur to Nepal — An Unplanned Halt at the Sunauli Border
The third day marked the beginning of our organised Nepal tour. We checked out of the hotel and proceeded to Gorakhpur Airport, where we were supposed to meet the other members of the group and join the tour. However, the arrangements did not quite work as expected. We had to wait outside the airport in the sun for others to arrive. This was the first instance of avoidable inconvenience. The tour organisers could easily have picked us up on their way from the airport instead of making us wait there. Once the group assembled, the tour officially began, with lunch at Gorakhnath Mutt. After lunch, we started our journey towards the Sunauli border, the principal road crossing between India and Nepal in this region. This delay was the second instance which could have been avoided. The journey was slower than anticipated. By the time we approached the border, it was night, and the traffic was extremely heavy. Crossing the border and proceeding further under those circumstances would have meant another long journey. Our original hotel at Chitwan National Park was still approximately 140 kilometres away. After considering the distance, the late hour and the traffic conditions, it was decided to halt at a hotel near the border and resume the journey early the next morning. This was the sensible thing done by the organiser. Although credit should go to the manager of the tour.
Sunauli Border Crossing
A Practical Necessity — Getting a Nepal SIM Card
One small but important arrangement was made at the hotel. We purchased a local Nepal SIM card with a data facility for emergency communication. Indian mobile SIM cards require international roaming arrangements to work in Nepal, and relying entirely on an Indian connection can become inconvenient or expensive. Having a local SIM was therefore a sensible precaution, particularly for staying connected during road journeys and in areas where communication might be important. The unplanned halt was not part of our itinerary, but it was a practical decision under the circumstances. We called it a day, hoping for a smoother journey ahead.
Day 4: Chitwan — Into the Wild at Chitwan National Park
We checked out after breakfast and resumed our journey towards Chitwan. By the time we reached Hotel Nature Heritage, Chitwan, we were ready to relax and begin exploring the natural attractions of the region. However, there was an important development concerning the next destination of our itinerary. The Muktinath Road Disruption
Our original plan included a visit to Muktinath, one of the most revered pilgrimage destinations in Nepal. Unfortunately, the road leading towards Muktinath had been cut off. The tour organiser informed us that a clearer update about the possibility of proceeding would be available after reaching Pokhara the following day. This uncertainty meant that we had to keep our plans flexible. Nevertheless, rather than allowing the road disruption to affect the day's activities, we proceeded with our scheduled visit to Chitwan National Park.
Chitwan National Park — A Date with Wildlife
Chitwan National Park is one of Nepal's most celebrated natural reserves and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is particularly famous for its one-horned rhinoceros, Bengal tigers, elephants and rich birdlife. Our safari turned out to be a rewarding experience. The highlight was spotting a magnificent one-horned rhinoceros cooling itself in a pond. Watching this massive animal enjoying the water in its natural habitat was a memorable sight. The rhinoceros appeared completely at ease, providing us with an excellent opportunity to observe it. We also spotted deer, crocodile, greater hornbill, a striking bird known for its large, distinctive bill and colourful casque. Elephants were another attraction, adding to the variety of wildlife encounters during the outing.
Rapti River Front
We also visited the Rapti River front, which offers a different perspective of Chitwan's natural surroundings. The river, with its forested banks, forms an important part of the park's ecosystem. The setting is especially attractive during the quieter hours, when the landscape reflects the natural beauty of the Terai region. The safari and riverfront visit made Chitwan a worthwhile stop. Though the uncertainty surrounding Muktinath continued.
Rapti River Front, Chitwan
Day 5: Chitwan to Pokhara — Temples, Waterfalls and a Change of Plans
After breakfast, we checked out of Hotel Nature Heritage and began our journey towards Pokhara. Pokhara is one of Nepal's most attractive tourist destinations, known for its lakes, mountain views, adventure activities and spiritual landmarks. It is also an important base for travellers heading towards the Annapurna region. On reaching Pokhara, we checked into Hotel Kantipur.
Kedareshwar Mahadev Mandir
Our hotel was conveniently located opposite Kedareshwar Mahadev Mandir, making it possible to visit the temple without travelling far. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the temple offered a peaceful spiritual beginning to our stay in Pokhara. The presence of the temple close to the hotel was a pleasant coincidence.
Bindhyabasini Mandir
Kedareshwar Mahadv
We also visited Bindhyabasini Mandir, one of the oldest and most important temples in Pokhara. Dedicated to Goddess Bhagwati, an incarnation of Goddess Durga, the temple occupies an elevated location and is an important centre of devotion for residents as well as pilgrims. The temple complex has a traditional atmosphere, and the elevated surroundings offer attractive views of the city and the distant hills. It was a rewarding visit combining religious significance with the charm of Pokhara.
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| Bindhyabasini Mandir |
Devi's Fall
After lunch, we proceeded to Devi's Fall, also known locally as Patale Chhango. Unlike an ordinary waterfall, the water here disappears into an underground channel, creating a fascinating natural phenomenon. Unfortunately, it was closed for repairs at the entrance. Hence, could not see the falls.
Gupteshwar Mahadev Cave
Devi's Fall
Opposite Devi's Fall is Gupteshwar Mahadev Cave, a sacred cave temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. The cave has an interesting combination of natural geological formations and religious significance. Visitors descend through a series of steps into the cave, where the Shiva shrine is located. One of the interesting aspects is the view of the waterfall from within the cave, through a natural opening. Seeing the water from this unusual angle makes the visit particularly memorable. We could go to a level where the Linga is installed, as further down where the Devi's fall water comes to the Shiva Murti was submerged in water due to rains.
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| Gupteshwar Mahadeo Cave |
Another Day in Pokhara
By the time we returned to the hotel, the uncertainty regarding Muktinath had finally been resolved, at least for the immediate future. Since the road remained closed, the organisers decided to spend another day in Pokhara rather than risk proceeding towards an inaccessible destination. Although missing Muktinath was disappointing, the additional day gave us an opportunity to explore Pokhara more leisurely.
Day 6: Sarangkot, Annapurna Cable Car and Pumdikot — A Day of Mountains and Spiritual Grandeur
We started early in the morning for Sarangkot, one of Pokhara's most popular viewpoints, particularly for watching the sunrise over the Annapurna mountain range.
Sarangkot and Annapurna Cable Car
We travelled by bus to the Annapurna Cable Car station and then boarded the cable car for the uphill journey towards the viewpoint. The cable car system, installed by Nippon Cable Company of Japan in 2016, has 17 gondolas. It provides a convenient and scenic way to reach the elevated viewpoint. The cable car journey itself is an attraction. Though one cannot view what is down due to early morning, in the return as the gondola moves downwards, the landscape gradually unfolds, offering views of Pokhara, the surrounding hills and, when the weather permits, the snow-covered Himalayan peaks. One interesting practical detail is the difference between approaching the area by cable car and by road. Visitors travelling by cable car have to cover approximately 10-15 minutes on foot to reach viewpoint. Those travelling by vehicle can proceed further, up to the Panchamukhi Ganesha, a towering, golden five-faced (Panchamukhi) God Ganesh statue standing about 48 feet tall, making it one of the tallest of its kind in Nepal. We had the satisfaction of seeing 108 dharas (water sprouts) replicating similar dharas of Muktinath in the complex.
Panchmukhi Ganesha 
Muktidhara at Sarangkot 
Annapurna Cable Car
The Elusive Himalayan Sunrise
Sarangkot is famous for its sunrise views, and many visitors had gathered early in the morning, cameras ready and eyes fixed on the horizon. Unfortunately, the weather was overcast. The sun appeared for only a few seconds before disappearing behind the clouds again. It was a little disappointing, particularly after the early start and the anticipation of seeing the first rays of sunlight illuminate the Himalayan peaks. Nature, however, does not always follow a tourist's timetable. Even without the spectacular sunrise, the viewpoint and the surrounding mountain scenery made the visit worthwhile. The site offers panoramic views of the Annapurna mountain range, Dhaulagiri, Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), Pokhara city, and Phewa Lake.
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| Sunrise view from Sarangkot |
Pumdikot — The Magnificent Shiva Statue
After lunch, we proceeded to Pumdikot, another prominent attraction near Pokhara.
The main attraction here is the monumental statue of Lord Shiva, sitting majestically against the backdrop of the surrounding hills. The statue, accompanied by a large circular structure and a temple complex, is an impressive sight. Its elevated location provides sweeping views of the Pokhara Valley and the surrounding landscape. The combination of religious architecture, the imposing Shiva statue and the natural setting makes Pumdikot a remarkable destination. For devotees, the place offers a spiritual experience; for photographers, it provides a striking subject against the Himalayan backdrop.
Pumdikot Shiva
Varahi Aarti on the Banks of the Lake
In the evening, we attended the Varahi Aarti near the lakeside, associated with Tal Barahi Temple, situated on an island in Phewa Lake. The evening prayers, devotional atmosphere and the setting beside the lake made for a beautiful experience. The aarti offered a peaceful conclusion to a day filled with mountain views and temple visits. However, immediately after the aarti, the weather changed dramatically and rain began to fall. We were caught in sudden downpour and returned to the hotel completely drenched. It was an unexpected end to an otherwise eventful day. The Himalayan weather had once again reminded us that it could change without much warning!
Tal Varahi Aarti, Pokhara
Day 7: Manakamana Devi Mandir and the Difficult Road to Kathmandu
The seventh day began with our journey to Manakamana Devi Mandir, one of Nepal's most revered Shakti temples. Dedicated to Goddess Bhagwati, an incarnation of Goddess Durga, the temple is situated on a hilltop and attracts devotees from across Nepal and neighbouring countries.
Manakamana Devi Mandir — A Journey by Cable Car
The temple is reached by a cable car journey of approximately 3.1 kilometres, with an elevation gain of around 1.3 kilometres. The Manakamana Cable Car is among Nepal's best-known ropeway systems and has been operating since 1998. Installed by Doppelmayr of Austria, the system has 34 gondolas and provides a convenient alternative to the traditional uphill journey. The cable car ride is an experience in itself. As the gondola climbs the mountain, the surrounding hills, valleys and settlements gradually appear below. It is an impressive example of how ropeway technology can make difficult mountain terrain accessible to pilgrims and tourists. Unfortunately, recent floods had damaged the approach road near the lower cable car station. Consequently, our vehicle could not drop us directly at the station. We had to get down and negotiate approximately 252 steps to reach the boarding point. The return journey involved climbing back up the same steps. Under normal circumstances, vehicles can take visitors much closer to the cable car station, making the approach considerably easier. Despite the additional effort, the darshan at Manakamana was rewarding. The temple is associated with the belief that the Goddess fulfils the sincere wishes of her devotees. The atmosphere was filled with faith and devotion, with pilgrims arriving throughout the day.
Manakamna Mandir 
Manakamna Cable Car view
The Road to Kathmandu — A Grim Reminder of Nature's Fury
After lunch, we began our journey towards Kathmandu. Until this point, the road had been reasonably good. However, the situation changed dramatically as we entered stretches affected by the recent floods. The destruction was extensive. Roads had been washed away or badly damaged, sections of the route had collapsed, and the surrounding landscape bore unmistakable signs of the force of the water. What was particularly striking was that even after nearly a month had passed since the floods, the damage remained so visible. The devastation was a grim reminder of how powerful water can be when it rushes through mountain valleys, sweeping away everything in its path. Bridges, roads, embankments and other infrastructure are particularly vulnerable in such terrain. The experience brought home the challenges of maintaining connectivity in a mountainous country like Nepal, where heavy rainfall and landslides can disrupt transport networks within hours.
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| Devastation on way to Kathmandu |
A Disappointing Arrival at Kathmandu
We finally reached Kathmandu at around 8 pm, tired after a long and difficult road journey. Unfortunately, the arrival did not improve our mood. The bus overshot the turn leading to our hotel, and all of us had to get down with our handbags and walk to the hotel. To make matters worse, the rooms had been allotted across two different hotels rather than accommodating the group under one roof. This created further inconvenience and confusion. And the final disappointment was yet to come. Dinner was not ready when we arrived, and we had to wait until around 11 pm before it was served. After a tiring journey through flood-affected roads, this was hardly the kind of welcome we had expected. The combination of a late arrival, luggage-related inconvenience, divided accommodation and delayed dinner left us quite unhappy. It was certainly one of the more challenging days of the tour.
Day 8: Pashupatinath, Kailashnath Mahadev and Doleshwar Mahadev — A Day of Shiva Darshan
The previous night's late dinner had an unfortunate consequence. My wife had a particularly uncomfortable morning and was feeling quite miserable. Nevertheless, we somehow managed to get ready and join the group for our visit to Pashupatinath Temple.
Pashupatinath Temple — One of the Holiest Shiva Shrines
Pashupatinath Temple is among the most sacred Hindu temples in the world and one of the most important centres of worship dedicated to Lord Shiva. Situated on the banks of the Bagmati River in Kathmandu, the temple is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and attracts devotees from Nepal, India and many other countries. The main temple, with its distinctive pagoda-style architecture and golden roof, is an impressive structure. The surrounding complex contains numerous smaller shrines, sacred spaces and traditional architectural features. The temple is particularly significant for devotees of Lord Shiva, who regard Pashupatinath as one of the most important manifestations of the deity. During our visit, we offered Ganga water, a dhoti and other customary offerings at the temple. Some members of our group also performed additional rituals and havan. The experience was deeply devotional. Offering Ganga water at one of the holiest Shiva temples in Nepal was particularly meaningful, bringing together the spiritual traditions of India and Nepal.
Pasupatinath Entrance 
View of Pasupatinath from Hotel
Kailashnath Mahadev Statue, Sanga
After lunch, we proceeded to Sanga in Bhaktapur district to visit the magnificent Kailashnath Mahadev statue. Standing approximately 143 feet tall, the statue depicts Shiva in a majestic standing posture. It is one of the tallest Shiva statues in Nepal and is an imposing landmark visible from a considerable distance. The sheer scale of the statue is remarkable. Set against the surrounding hills, it creates a striking visual impression and offers excellent opportunities for photography.
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| Kailashnath Mahadev |
Doleshwar Mahadev Mandir, Sipadol
Our next destination was Doleshwar Mahadev Mandir, Sipadol in Bhaktapur district. This temple holds special significance for devotees because it is regarded as the head of Kedarnath Mahadev in India. According to religious belief, the head of Lord Shiva, which is not represented at the main Kedarnath shrine, is worshipped here. The temple is therefore closely associated with the sacred pilgrimage tradition of Kedarnath. The visit was particularly meaningful because it connected our Nepal pilgrimage with one of the most revered Shiva shrines in the Indian Himalayas. It was a spiritually fulfilling day, with three important destinations associated with Shiva forming the highlights of our itinerary.
Doleshwar Mahadeo
An Unexpected Opportunity — Mountain Flight
We had originally planned to visit Muktinath, but the road closure had resulted in an additional day in our itinerary. Rather than allowing the extra day to go unused, we decided to make the most of our stay in Kathmandu by booking a mountain flight for the following morning. The prospect of seeing the Himalayan peaks from the air was exciting. It was an opportunity to experience the world's highest mountain range from an entirely different perspective.
Day 9: The Himalayas from the Sky and a Spiritual Tour of Kathmandu
The ninth day began early with our visit to the domestic airport for the much-anticipated mountain flight. Mountain Flight — A Date with the Himalayas from Above
The mountain flight was quite an experience. Nepal's mountain flights offer visitors an opportunity to see the magnificent Himalayan range from the comfort of an aircraft. For travellers who cannot undertake long and demanding treks, these flights provide an extraordinary opportunity to witness the grandeur of the mountains. As the aircraft took off and gradually approached the Himalayan region, the landscape transformed into an incredible panorama of towering peaks, snow-covered slopes and deep valleys. The experience of looking at these mountains from above is difficult to describe. The sheer scale of the Himalayan range becomes more apparent when viewed from the air. What appears majestic from the ground looks even more overwhelming from an aircraft. It was a memorable addition to our Nepal itinerary, especially considering that our original plan to visit Muktinath had been disrupted.
View of Everest
After returning from the flight, we once again visited Pashupatinath Temple. A second visit gave us an opportunity to spend some more time at this important spiritual destination.
Boudhanath Stupa — A Symbol of Buddhist Faith
In the afternoon, we began exploring some of Kathmandu's other important religious landmarks. Our first destination was Boudhanath Stupa, also known as Khasti Chaitya, one of the largest and most significant Buddhist stupas in Nepal. The stupa is an important centre of Tibetan Buddhism and is regarded as a symbolic representation of the enlightened mind of the Buddhas. Its enormous white dome, crowned by a golden tower with the all-seeing eyes of the Buddha, makes it one of the most recognisable monuments in Kathmandu.
Swayambhunath
Budhanilkantha Temple — The Sleeping Vishnu
We next visited Budhanilkantha Temple, also known as Narayanthan Temple, located in Budhanilkantha in Kathmandu. Dedicated to Lord Mahavishnu, the temple is famous for its enormous stone image of the reclining deity, lying on the coils of the serpent Shesha in a sacred water tank. The statue is carved from a single block of black stone and depicts Lord Vishnu in a resting posture. The deity is surrounded by water, creating a unique and visually striking setting. It is one of the most distinctive Vishnu temples in Nepal. The sight of the enormous reclining image is fascinating, and the temple attracts devotees throughout the year.
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| Budhnilkantha |
Guhyeshwari Temple — A Sacred Shakti Peetha
Our next stop was Guhyeshwari Temple, situated approximately one kilometre east of the Pashupatinath complex, on the southern bank of the Bagmati River. The temple is an important Shakti pilgrimage centre and is traditionally regarded as one of the sacred Shakti Peethas. Dedicated to Goddess Parvati, the temple has deep religious significance for devotees of the Divine Mother. Its association with the Shakti tradition makes it an important complement to the Shiva worship at nearby Pashupatinath. The temple's architectural style and spiritual atmosphere distinguish it from the other shrines we had visited during the day.
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| Guhyeshwari Temple |
More Spiritual Stops — Boudha and ISKCON
We also visited another Buddha temple in the Boudha area, adding to our experience of Kathmandu's Buddhist heritage. Our final religious stop was the ISKCON temple. Dedicated to the worship of Lord Krishna, the temple reflects the devotional traditions of the International Society for Krishna Consciousness. By the end of the day, we had experienced the Himalayas from the sky and visited some of Nepal's most significant religious landmarks.
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| Boudha Temple |
Day 10: Kathmandu to Mumbai — An Extended Wait at the Airport
The final day of our Nepal journey began with checking out of the hotel around noon. Our return flight to Mumbai had originally been scheduled for 1.30 pm. It was subsequently rescheduled to 3.30 pm, and we planned our departure from the hotel accordingly. We reached the airport around noon, leaving ourselves sufficient time for check-in and other formalities. However, the flight timings continued to change. The departure was first pushed further back to 5.35 pm and eventually the aircraft took off only around 7 pm. What should have been a relatively straightforward return journey turned into another long wait. The delay made the final leg of the journey somewhat tiring. We eventually landed in Mumbai at approximately 9.30 pm. And with that, our Nepal journey came to an end.
Kathmandu Airport
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| View from Manakamna Cable Car |
Muktinath is still on our wish list. Perhaps that is a good enough reason to return to Nepal! Some destinations are visited, some are experienced, and some remain waiting for the next journey. Nepal gave us all three.
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