Kashmir: A Nine-Day Journey Through Mountains

From the railway tracks of Jammu to the valleys of Kashmir, from the engineering marvels of Chenab and Anji bridges to the serene waters of Dal Lake, this journey was a blend of breathtaking landscapes, spiritual experiences, warm hospitality and a few unexpected twists.

Day 1: The Journey Begins — Bandra Terminus to Katra

Every memorable journey begins with a little anticipation, and ours began at Bandra Terminus, Mumbai, where we boarded the Swaraj Express bound for Katra. We had planned our journey with a special purpose: to experience the much-talked-about Vande Bharat train ride across the magnificent Chenab Bridge and the spectacular Anji Bridge on our way to Srinagar.

Day 2: Katra — A Little Shopping Before the Mountains

We reached Katra by evening. Known primarily as the base town for pilgrims visiting the revered Shri Mata Vaishno Devi shrine. After settling in, we spent some time exploring the local market. The shops offered the usual assortment of souvenirs, clothing, dry fruits and other items that make for pleasant holiday purchases. It was an easy, relaxed evening—a chance to stretch our legs after the train journey and soak in the local atmosphere. Sometimes, travel is not just about visiting famous landmarks. It is also about wandering through unfamiliar streets, browsing little shops and enjoying the simple pleasure of being somewhere new. Little did we know that our Katra stay would soon provide one of the most memorable lessons in human kindness of the entire trip.

Day 3: Vande Bharat to Srinagar — An Unexpected Act of Kindness

We boarded the Vande Bharat train for Srinagar, looking forward to the journey through the Himalayan landscape. The prospect of travelling through this challenging terrain by rail was exciting. The Chenab Bridge is an extraordinary feat of railway engineering, soaring high above the Chenab River and surrounded by rugged Himalayan mountains. Its imposing steel arch and breathtaking height make it one of the most remarkable railway bridges in the world.

Chenab railway bridge

The Anji Bridge, India's first cable-stayed railway bridge, is another engineering marvel set amid the dramatic Himalayan terrain. Its elegant cables, towering pylon and deep valley views offer a striking contrast to the massive steel arch of the Chenab Bridge.

Anji rail bridge

Railway operations had changed by the time of our journey. The Vande Bharat service, which originated from Katra, had begun operating from Jammu Tawi. Nevertheless, the journey had begun, and Kashmir awaited us with its mountains, valleys and countless possibilities.

As we settled into the journey, an unexpected phone call came from the staff of our hotel in Katra. We had accidentally left a purse behind in our room. The hotel staff member was kind enough to send us a video showing the contents of the purse, reassuring us that it had been found safely. We requested him to send it to us by courier, if possible. The purse had been lost from our possession, but the honesty and promptness of the hotel staff turned an otherwise stressful incident into a reassuring experience. As promised, once our tour was completed, we called him immediately and he said he can transfer the money through UPI which he did instantly. The incident was a lovely reminder that genuine hospitality is not limited to providing a comfortable room; it is also about trustworthiness, consideration and going out of one's way to help a guest.

Srinagar railway station

On reaching Srinagar, we discovered that the railway station was located outside the main city, along the highway. This is worth keeping in mind when planning onward travel, as reaching a hotel in the city requires additional road transport. We checked into a hotel near Zero Bridge, a convenient base for exploring Srinagar. The city, with its waterways, old neighbourhoods and mountain backdrop, had already begun to draw us into its unique rhythm.

Zero bridge

 

Day 4: Mughal Gardens — A Gentle Introduction to Srinagar

Our organised tour began with a pickup from our hotel and a transfer to another hotel arranged as part of the tour. Since the rooms were not ready when we arrived, we decided to make good use of the waiting time by visiting two of Srinagar's most celebrated attractions: Shalimar Bagh and Nishat Bagh.

Shalimar Bagh

Shalimar Bagh is one of Kashmir's best-known Mughal gardens, associated with Emperor Jahangir and his love for Kashmir. Its carefully laid-out terraces, water channels, fountains and rows of trees reflect the Mughal vision of a garden as a place of beauty. Walking through the garden, one can appreciate how architecture and nature have been brought together to create a sense of harmony. 

Shalimar bagh

Nishat Bagh

Nishat Bagh, situated along the eastern shore of Dal Lake, is celebrated for its terraced layout and expansive views. The garden rises in levels against the Zabarwan hills, with its fountains and waterways adding to the charm. The combination of landscaped greenery, distant mountains and the lake makes Nishat Bagh especially photogenic. Every terrace offers a different perspective, making it a delightful place to pause, take photographs and enjoy the scenery.

Nishat bagh

Day 5: Pahalgam — Ancient Ruins and Rain-Soaked Valleys 

The next morning, we set out for Pahalgam, a destination famous for its lush meadows, river scenery and surrounding mountains. The drive itself is an important part of the experience, with the landscape gradually changing as the city gives way to the countryside.

Avantipur Temple Ruins

En route, we stopped at the ruins of the ancient Avantipur temples. These remains offer a glimpse into Kashmir's rich architectural and religious heritage. The stone structures, weathered by centuries, evoke a time when the region was home to remarkable temple architecture and thriving centres of worship. Renovation and conservation work was underway during our visit. Standing among the ancient stones, one cannot help but reflect on the many layers of history that Kashmir holds within its landscape.

Avantipur Temple

Betaab Valley

We continued towards Betaab Valley, known for its green meadows, mountain slopes and scenic setting. However, the weather had other plans. Rain began to fall, limiting the time we could spend outdoors. We managed to enter the valley briefly and capture a few photographs before moving on. Even in the rain, the landscape had its own charm, with mist and clouds lending the mountains a dramatic appearance.

Betaab valley

Aru Valley

Aru Valley was another destination on our itinerary. Like Betaab Valley, it is admired for its natural beauty and peaceful surroundings. The rain, however, curtailed our visit here as well. We could only make a brief stop and take a few photographs.

Aru Valley

One practical detail that travellers should remember is that access to these sightseeing points may involve hiring local taxis from the designated bus or taxi stand. Our experience highlighted the importance of allowing extra time for local transport, weather conditions and possible waiting periods. The day reminded us of a fundamental truth about travel: nature follows its own schedule, and sometimes the briefest glimpses become cherished memories.

view of valley

Day 6: Gulmarg — When the Gondola Plans Went Awry

Gulmarg was one of the destinations we had eagerly anticipated. Famous for its snow-covered slopes, alpine scenery and the Gulmarg Gondola, it promises spectacular views of the higher Himalayan peaks. However, even before we arrived, we learned of an incident involving the Gondola on the previous day. Soon afterwards, we received an official confirmation message that the services had been suspended and that a full refund would be provided. It was disappointing news, particularly because we had confirmed tickets for both phases of the Gondola ride. Our hope of reaching the icy heights of Gulmarg was once again thwarted.

Drung waterfall

There was a sense of déjà vu. We had missed out on the Kashmir in 2023 because of ill health I dropped out leading to my wife staying with me, though our sons enjoyed it. In 2026, the circumstances were entirely different: we had reached Gulmarg, had our tickets ready, and were looking forward to the ride, only to find that the service was suspended. Perhaps the mountains were determined to keep their highest viewpoints for another visit!.

Apple Orchards

We decided not to let the disappointment dominate the day. Instead, we explored other attractions around Gulmarg, beginning with apple orchards. Kashmir's apple-growing tradition is an important part of its rural economy, and the orchards offer a glimpse of the agricultural life that exists alongside the region's tourism industry. When we visited the harvest season was over.

Drung Waterfall

Our next stop was Drung Waterfall, a scenic attraction where water cascades through a rocky mountain setting. Drung offers a different kind of beauty from Gulmarg's snow-covered heights. It is less about panoramic views and more about experiencing the dramatic landscape.

Military Museum

Military Museum

We also visited the Military Museum which was opened recently offered an opportunity to learn about the armed forces and their presence in this strategically important region. Despite missing the Gondola ride, Gulmarg rewarded us with breathtaking mountain views. Its vast open spaces and dramatic scenery reminded us that a destination can offer plenty even when the principal attraction remains inaccessible. The Gondola will have to wait for another trip. For now, Gulmarg gave us enough reasons to remember the day fondly.

Valley at Gulmarg

Day 7: Srinagar — Hilltop Views, Dal Lake and Temple Visits 

Our seventh day combined sightseeing, a boat ride and visits to two important temples that were not part of our organised tour.

Shankaracharya Hill

We began with a visit to Shankaracharya Hill, one of Srinagar's prominent landmarks. The ancient temple dedicated to Lord Shiva stands on a hill overlooking the city and Dal Lake. Due to huge crowd, there was no parking available. We had to park midway and hire an auto rickshaw to reach the mandir. The elevated setting provides an impressive perspective of Srinagar's geography. From above, the city, its waterways and the surrounding mountains come together in a broad panorama. The climb and the mandir visit make this a destination that combines spiritual significance with scenic beauty.

Sankaracharya Hill

A Boat Ride on Dal Lake

No visit to Srinagar feels complete without spending time on Dal Lake. We enjoyed a boat ride, taking in the distinctive atmosphere of the lake and its surroundings. Dal Lake is more than a scenic attraction. Its houseboats, floating gardens, local boats and lakeside settlements form part of Srinagar's cultural identity. The water offers a different perspective of the city, away from the traffic and bustle of its roads. The reflections of the mountains and the surrounding buildings make the lake especially appealing to photographers. Even an ordinary moment on the water can turn into a memorable travel photograph.

Dal lake boat ride

Eid Holidays and the City Traffic

Our visit coincided with the Eid holidays. The additional movement of local visitors, along with tourists, made the traffic considerably heavier than usual. Getting around Srinagar required patience and a little flexibility with our plans. This was also a reminder that travel during festivals can bring both challenges and opportunities. The city was busier, but the holiday atmosphere added another dimension to our experience.

Jyeshtha Devi Mandir

Two temples that were missing from our organised itinerary caught our attention: Jyeshtha Devi Mandir, near Raj Bhavan, and Kheer Bhawani Mandir at Ganderbal. We decided to hire a taxi independently and visit both. Jyeshtha Devi Mandir provided a peaceful spiritual interlude amid the day's sightseeing. The temple's setting and devotional atmosphere made the visit worthwhile. The abode of Mata Jyeshtha (Zeashta) is at a stone’s throw from the place called "Gupkar" in the Srinagar city. All the devotees worshipping Goddess Zeashta are fully protected and receive Mother's grace uninterruptedly. It has been a tradition to offer 'cooked yellowish rice" (in kashmiri "tehar") on all Thursdays during the month of Zyesth (Jyeshtha). We also enjoyed a lovely lunch at the temple. It was one of those simple travel experiences that stay in the memory—because of the warmth and satisfaction of a good meal after a morning of sightseeing.

Kheer Bhawani Mandir, Ganderbal

Our next visit was to Kheer Bhawani Mandir, an important place of worship associated with Goddess Ragnya Devi and deeply revered by Kashmiri Pandits, situated in the Tulla Mulla village near Srinagar. The temple attributes its unique name to the famous Indian dessert kheer, which is the main offering to the goddess.

Kheer Bhawani

Maharaja Pratap Singh built this temple in 1912, which was later renovated by Maharaja Hari Singh. The shrine has a hexagonal spring and a small marble shrine where the goddess' idol is installed. On the eighth day of the full moon in May, devotees gather at the Kheer Bhawani Temple and observe fasts. It is believed that Goddess Ragnya changes the spring's colour on this auspicious day. If the colour changes to black, it is considered a bad omen that would result in a disaster in the valley. Making these visits independently required some additional planning, but it was worth the effort. An organised itinerary can cover the major tourist attractions, yet sometimes the most personally meaningful experiences are those we choose to pursue on our own.

Day 8: Sonmarg — A Journey Through the Mountains to Zero Point 

Our eighth day took us to Sonmarg, often described as the Meadow of Gold. Surrounded by majestic mountains and known for its alpine scenery, Sonmarg is one of Kashmir's most striking destinations. We travelled to the Sonmarg market area, from where we hired a local taxi for the journey towards Zero Point via the famous Zoji La Pass.

Thajiwas glacier

Through Zoji La Pass

Zoji La is a high mountain pass connecting the Kashmir Valley with the Ladakh region. The route is known for its rugged terrain, steep slopes and dramatic mountain views. There is point before Baltal from where the road to Amarnath starts. Travelling through this landscape is an experience. The road winds through the mountains, revealing changing vistas at every turn. It also reminds visitors of the challenges involved in maintaining road connectivity across the Himalayas. The journey can be demanding, and conditions may vary with weather, road maintenance and seasonal access. Hiring an authorised local taxi and following the driver's advice are sensible precautions for this excursion.

Zero point

An Ice Walk at Zero Point

As we approached the snowy stretch, we hired boots suitable for walking on ice. The arrangement was convenient: we could use the boots for the excursion and return them on our way back. Walking on an icy surface was a different experience from simply admiring snow from a distance. The terrain demanded care, but it also brought us closer to the rugged mountain environment we had come to experience. The surrounding landscape, with its snow and towering peaks, made the excursion one of the highlights of our Kashmir trip. After missing the Gondola ride at Gulmarg, this outing gave us another opportunity to enjoy the region's wintry beauty. We returned towards Srinagar in the evening, looking forward to our stay in a houseboat.

The Houseboat Experience

Nagin Lake in Srinagar is a deep blue water offshoot lake of Dal Lake that is interconnected by a thin causeway. The lake is located to the east of the city of Srinagar, at the foothill of the Zabarwan Mountain. The Shankaracharya Hill on the south and Hari Parbat on the west enclose the Nagin Lake, offers breathtaking views to the visitors. It is flanked by beautiful willow and poplar trees.  Our houseboat stay offered a fitting change of pace after a long day in the mountains. Houseboats are an integral part of Kashmir's tourism heritage, providing visitors with an opportunity to experience life on the water. 

There is something special about spending an evening in a houseboat after travelling through mountain passes and snowy landscapes. It creates a gentle transition from the excitement of sightseeing to the quiet reflection that often accompanies the end of a holiday.

House boat with Hari parbat in the background

Lal Chowk Clock Tower — A Final Evening Out 

Although the day had been long, we still wanted to visit the iconic Clock Tower at Lal Chowk before our journey came to an end. We hired an auto-rickshaw and headed to Lal Chowk, one of Srinagar's best-known public spaces. The Clock Tower, also known as Ghanta Ghar, is a prominent landmark and a familiar symbol of the city's urban identity. We spent some time at the location, taking in the atmosphere and capturing photographs. It was a simple outing, but an enjoyable one—a chance to see another side of Srinagar beyond its lakes, gardens and mountains. Returning to the houseboat afterwards, we knew that our Kashmir journey was ending. The day had given us snow, mountain scenery, a memorable road trip and one last glimpse of the city.

Clock tower area with bustling crowd, Lal chowk 

Day 9: Farewell to Kashmir — The Journey Home 

The final morning arrived sooner than we would have liked. We checked out early and proceeded to Srinagar Airport for our return flight to Mumbai.

Some experiences had gone exactly as planned, while others had taken unexpected turns. We had missed the Gondola despite holding confirmed tickets and had independently arranged visits to temples that were absent from our itinerary. Yet these changes did not diminish the journey. In many ways, they made it more personal and memorable.

Until next time, Kashmir!

Some journeys end at the airport. Others continue in photographs, conversations and the quiet hope of returning someday.