Last leg of Kashi yatra. It ends where the first leg started i.e. Rameswaram. Added Tiruppunavasal, Thiruvadanai and Tiruchendur to the itinerary. Went from Mumbai by Chennai Express and from Chennai to Mandapam by Rameswaram Express.
Rameswaram
The day started with darshan of Ramanatha Swamy. We wanted to have the abhishekam of Ganges
water which we took it from Sangam in Prayagraj in the afternoon (Temple closes
at 12 noon and opens at 4 pm) as afternoons are relatively less crowded. Went
to Arichalmunai, the land’s end. The road (NH49 Rameswaram-Arichalmunai Road)
up to this point was constructed and opened on 27.7.2017. Visited the ruins at Dhanushkodi
railway station after the cyclone in 1964. An estimated wind velocity of 280 km
per hour and tidal waves as high as 23 ft swept Dhanushkodi on the night of
22-23 December 1964. Around 1800 people died in the cyclonic storm including
115 people traveling by the Pamban-Dhanushkodi passenger train that night.
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| Arichalmunai, Dhanushkodi |
Kothandaramar Temple where Shri Ram is said to have made Vibhishan as the King of Lanka. The temple is on the left side of road which ends on a small mound while going to Arichalmunai. Saw other temples like Panchamukhi Anjaneya, Ramar Tirtham, and other places.
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| Kothandaramar Temple |
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| Ramar Tirtham |
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| Natarajar Temple |
In the afternoon, we did the abhishekam with the Ganges
water which was brought from Sangam, Prayagraj. (Special tickets for the same
has to be purchased). Had very good
darshan of the God and Goddess.
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| Ramanathaswamy Temple |
Day 2 - Devipattinam
The Navapashanam Temple is an ancient Hindu temple,
located in Devipattinam, 70 kilometers away from Rameshwaram. It is dedicated
to the Navagrahas (9 planet deities) located a few meters into the sea near the
shore of the village, and the installed stones represent the nine planets. The
Navagrahas can be seen partly submerged in the sea but close to the beach.
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| Navagraha Tirtham, Devipattinam |
Tiruppunavasal
The Vridhapureeswarar temple in Thirupunavasal,
Pudukkottai district, Tamil Nadu, is renowned for its distinctive Shiva Linga
and 'Aavudayar' (the pedestal on which the Linga is placed) with the largest
circumference. The presiding deity of the temple is known as
'Vruddhapureeswarar' or 'Pazhamainathar' (both meaning ancient) due to the
ancient origin and association with Brahma's worship at this sacred location. The
temple features an impressive east facing rajagopuram, which stands at a height
of 65 feet. 'Brahma Theertham' is adjacent to the temple.
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| Vridhapureeswarar Temple, Tiruppunavasal |
The temple architecture is a fusion of Pandyan and Cholan
architectures in that the Vimana gopurum above the Sanctum is also as tall. The
Shiva lingam in the sanctum sanatorium is installed on a base (aavudai) is
around 82.5 feet in circumference, with the Lingam itself being about 9 feet
tall. Devotees present a specially made 90 feet cloth for the deity here to
adorn the Lingam. Abisheakam is performed using a special ladder that goes
across the aavudai.
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| Another View of Tiruppunavasal Temple |
There is a shrine for Kudavarai Kali opposite to this,
who is believed to bless pregnancy and delivery [there are no delivery
hospitals in the vicinity]. Within this chamber Kali's fearsome visage can be
glimpsed through a reflective mirror. Tiruppunavasal is believed to have been
in existence in all the four Yugas referred to by different names in each Yuga.
Consequently, there are four 'sthala vruksham' within the temple. A disregarded
variety of cactus known as 'chatura kalli' was the 'sthala vruksham' in
Kruthayuga indicating that in the eyes of God every being is equal. In
Kruthayuga this place was known as Vajravanam or Indirapura. In Threthayuga it
was called Brhamapura with 'kurunda' (wild orange) as 'sthala vruksham'. In Dwaparayuga,
it was known as 'Vrudhakasi' with 'magizha' (intermedlar tree) as sthala
vruksham and in Kaliyuga, it is referred to as pazhampathi with the 'punnai'
(mastwood) as sthala vruksham.
Thiruvadanai
'Aadanai' as here is where Varuni's curse for lifted,
this sacred place holds significant spiritual importance. Varuni, the daughter
of Varuna, the celestial god of rain, once unintentionally ignored Sage
Durvasa, who was deeply engrossed in his penance. Enraged by her disregard, the
sage cursed Varuni to have the head of a goat and the body of an elephant.
Realizing her mistake, Varuni humbly sought the sage's forgiveness. Sage
Durvasa advised her to worship God Shiva, who was revered by the Sun God
himself at this very location, in order to regain her original form. This place
came to be known as 'Aadanai' in Tamil, derived from the words 'Aadu' meaning
goat and 'Yanai' meaning elephant, in reference to Varuni's transformation. Interestingly,
it is believed that even in the present day, when the linga is anointed with
milk during noon, it takes on a mesmerizing blue hue. The architectural layout
of the temple is meticulously designed in such a way that during the Tamil
month of Masi, the rays of sunlight beautifully illuminate the idols of the God
and Goddess.
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| Tiruvadanai |
On way to Thiruchendur, we passed through Tuticorin (Thoothukudi).
I remembered Dr. Muthunarayan who was my room partner in our Greater Rann of
Kuchh Trip in 2012. Though we keep in
touch in social media, never had a chance to speak to him. He was pleasantly surprised when I called him. He invited us to his house which was on the
way. We had a nice talk an hour or
so. After pleasantries, left for
Thiruchendur who suggested us to visit the temple on that day itself. So, we followed his advice.
Thiruchendur
After refreshing at the Hotel Tamil Nadu, we went
straight to the temple and had a good darshan courtesy Dr. Muthunarayan
Thiruchendur Thirukoil is the Second place of Arupadai
veedu. This sacred house of god is in the extreme south west of the Indian
Peninsula located at shore of Bay of Bengal. The young Lord Muruga as the
Devasenapathy vanquishes Evil in the form of Surapathma. The Tamils have ever
since been celebrating the as an annual festival during Skanda Shasti. This
temple is believed to be 2000-3000 years old. The place where this temple is
located was earlier known as Thirchiralaiwai. The tower of the temple is 157
feet height with nine floors. After conquering Soorapadman, Lord Muruga
performed Shiva Puja to express his gratitude for his victory. Here Murugan
graces with a lotus flower on his right hand. He also wears a Jadamakutam on
his head like Shiva Yogi.
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| Tiruchendur Murugan Temple |
Rajagopuram is located in the west direction of Murugan
shrine in Tiruchendur. Lord Muruga looks towards the east in this temple
looking at the sea. The main Gopuram was constructed behind to the Swami, (i.e.
in the eastern direction) But the tower is built in the west because of the sea
in the area. West Raja Gopuram gate is opened only for one day in a year at
midnight during Murugan Thirukalyanam during the Kandashashti festival.
Devotees are not allowed to enter at that time.
Nazhi Kinaru
It is a well 14 feet square, and reached below on either
of its sides by a flight of 34 steps.The bath there is to be in two waters! One
is a remarkable spring of fresh crystal water almost in a stone receptacle
known as Nāzhik Kinaru. It is a foot square and about 7 feet deep and inset
within the larger major well referred to. The latter is one of saltish and
highly sulphurous smelling and muddy-looking water. This swells up during the
day and pumped out daily so as not to allow it to over-flow into the smaller
one.
Where from do these two distinct supplies of water with
different tastes spring and how they are kept separate are a mystery and a
problem for the physiographers to solve. A bath in the sea as well in these two
waters is considered to be of much spiritual merit. The Nāzhik Kinaru swells up
and maintains its level in spite of bailing out any quantity of water as the
worshippers bathe out of it. Also the source of water supply for the two wells
are unknown. It is believed that Lord Muruga had placed His lance, the Vel and
had created this spring in order to quench the thirst of His warriors during
the fight against Surapadhman.
Day 3
Thoondukai Vinayakar
The entrance to the main temple has a covered overhead like a shelter for about 1 to 1.5 kms. There are small shops on either side of the temple. Even before this pathway begins the temple of Thoondukai Vinayagar could be seen. Every devotee first visit this temple before having a darshan of Lord Chendur Andavar.
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| Thoondukai Vinayakar, Tiruchendur |
Ayya Vaikundar Avathara Pathi
It is believed that God Maha Vishnu in a formless way and
entered the seashore at Tiruchendur and returned in a human form, he was called
Ayya Vaikundar, which was the tenth incarnation of Maha Vishnu and the said
spot is named ‘Avathara Pathi’ (Avathara meaning the place of incarnation), one
of the most sacred sites. Ayya Vaikundar appeared in the form of a mendicant
dressed up in ochre robe, braided hair, sacred white mark on forehead,
Rudraksha mala (garland) around the neck, Rishi’s Wand and a Kamandal (a
water-vessel of a religious mendicant) in hands.
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| Ayya Vaikundar Avathara Pathi |
Moovar Samadhi
Amidst the vast and roaring waves and an eternal silence,
lay the Maha samadhis of three sadhus, Mouna Swami, Kasi Swami and Arumuga
Swami. These three sadhus had spent their entire lifetime (1868 to 1940) in the
renovation and reconstruction of this temple despite the fact that they were
ever living in poverty. Mouna Swami had taken up a vow of silence. Kasi Swami
had come down from Kasi and had joined hands with Mouna Swami. They were involved
in the collection of huge funds by means of hundies. Arumuga Swami had taken up
the work after Mouna Swami had attained the God’s feet and had contributed
tirelessly for 24 years. It is believed that in order to pay homage to these
sadhus who had contributed immensely to the construction of this temple with
their selfless and tireless work, one should visit the moovar samadhi.
Valli Gugai (Valli Cave)
The Valli cave consists of a sanctum sanctorum dedicated
to Valli. This is a cave of sandal mountains. Inside the cave, paintings and
statues depicting the Murugan and Valli legend are present. In front of the
cave, a mandapa with 16 pillars is constructed which is 24.5 feet long and 21.5
feet broad. A narrow path through the cave connects the mandapa and the
sanctum. The main gateway to the temple is south-facing towards the Tiruchendur
Murugan Temple.
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| Valli Gugai (Cave) |
Kulasekaranpattinam is situated on the way to
Kanniyakumari from Tiruchendur. It is 20 kms from Tiruchendur and 65 kms from
Kanyakumari. This village is famous for Mutharaman Temple, which is located on
the shore of Bay of Bengal. This temple is nearly 150 years old. The Dassehra
(Dasara) Festival is celebrated in a grand scale every year during October.
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| Mutharamman Temple, Kulasekaran Pattinam |
After spending a few hours at the temple complex, left
for Tiruchendur railway station to catch train to Chennai. Day4 to Day7 After
attending some religious ceremony and marriage started back to Mumbai.
Day 8
Sri Kalahasti
Started by road around noon and reached in 3 hours. Checked into a hotel near the temple. After refreshment went to the temple and had
darshan of the God Shiva the presiding deity.
Srikalahasti temple, situated 36 km away from Tirupati,
is famous for its Vayu Lingam (Wind Lingam), one of the Pancha Bhuta Sthalams,
representing the wind. Shiva appeared before the sage Markandeya in
Srikalahasti and preached that a Guru alone could make esoteric teachings and,
therefore he is Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva.
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| Srikalahasti Temple |
The inner temple was constructed around the 5th century
CE and the outer temple was constructed in the 11th century by the Rajendra
Chola I and other Chola emperors. The 120 feet (37 m) high main gopuram and the
hundred pillared hall with intricate carvings was commissioned during the
regime of the Vijayanagara Krishnadevaraya during 1516 CE
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| View from Kannappar Hill, Srikalahasti |
The presiding image of Shiva in the form of Linga is made
of white stone (believed to be the solidification of camphor) in a tall
cylindrical shape resembling an elephant trunk. The stone is divided into 5
segments. The lingam is lit by many lamps in the sanctum. Miraculously, the
lingam never caught fire even though camphor is a flammable substance. There is
a rock-cut shrine of Shiva's son Ganesha, 9 ft (2.7 m) below the ground level.
Day 9
Gudimallam
Suggested by Dr. Muthunarayanan of Thoothukudi
(Tuticorin), diverted our car from Sri Kalahasti to Renigunta via Gudimallam.
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| Gudimallam Temple |
The sanctum of the Parasurameswara Swamy temple has a
square plan embedded in an apsidal structure. Greatness of Parasurameswara temple
lies in its tall and erect linga within the sanctum which has no parallel in
the country. It is a pillar with irregular broad facet, the front contains an
image of Shiva in bold relief standing on the shoulders of a dwarf-yaksha. Excavations
within the shrine brought to light a square rail and the manusha linga was set
within two highly polished stone rings sometime in 2nd-3rd
centuries BC.
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| Backside view of Sanctum Sanctorium, Gudimallam |
Reached Renigunta in the afternoon and caught the evening
train to Mumbai reaching home next day.
