Coastal Karnataka Trip Report
In March 2014, I went on a tour to coastal Karnataka. Bookings were done
in advance accordingly. But at the last
moment, my son decided to stay back. It was for him I planned this trip. Places were to be covered: Karwar, Gokarna, Murudeshwar,
Jog Falls, Udupi, Kollur, Someshwara Wildlife Sanctuary, Mangalore and beaches
enroute and nearby. However as my son
not accompanied us, we revised the tour itinerary. Though Jog falls was on o
ur
itinerary, it was not covered as it becomes dry during this period. Someshwara
Wildlife Sanctuary about which Karnataka Tourism gives wide publicity, none of
the hoteliers, taxi drivers, forest department personnel know about this place,
which is wondering. I missed out this sanctuary by searching for the entry. Now
for the plus points. The whole stretch is green; green; green. Even in
scorching March summer the whole route was plush with greenery. Think what you
will get to see during rainy season and after rains. I will be posting day wise
for the benefit of friends.
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| Karwar Beach |
Day-1
Our First stop was
Karwar. After getting down from Mumbai-Mangalore Express, we hopped in to a
hired taxi for Gokarna. On way we saw the Karwar beach. Karwar to Gokarna by
road is 60 km. We had to cut short our plan for Ankola, as the temple at
Gokarna closes at 12.00 noon. We wanted to reach before 11.00 am and reached
Gokarna at 11.00 am. Atma Linga
Mahabaleshwara Temple is closed between 12.00 noon to 5.00 pm. Joglekar
Brothers whose house is bang opposite the main entrance of the temple are very
courteous and do the necessary pooja. They provide all the help including stay
and boarding also.
Dress
code: Men should not wear upper garment. Dhoti/Pant allowed. No Bermuda or
other fancy dresses.
GOKARNA
According to the legend, Ravana obtained the Atma Linga from
Lord Shiva himself. Sage
Narada prayed to Lord Ganesha to stop Ravana from
taking the linga to Lanka. While taking it to Lanka, he wanted to do Sandhya
before sunset. Lord Ganesha took a boy’s roop and offered to help him to hold
the Atmalinga for a short period as he found it heavy. (Not to be kept in the
land till he reaches Lanka, else it will get stuck at the place where it is kept).
Ganesha calls for Ravana thrice and on the third call places the Atmalinga
where it is now in Gokarna. Ravana gets angry and pricks
(kottu) Ganesh on his head because of which there is a small dent in Ganesha’s
head. This temple is also in front of Mahabaleshwar. One can touch the stone
idol and worship at the temple. Entry Ticket Re.1 per person. Now for the
reminder of the legend. Ravana was
unable to extract the Atma Linga from the ground again. Ravana’s efforts to
extract the linga resulted in his throwing the coverings of the Atma Linga to
Dhareshwar, Gunavanteshwara, Murudeshwar and Shejjeshwar temples. Finally he called the Shiva linga as Mahabala
(too strong). Hence, the Atma Linga of Lord Shiva is popularly known as
Mahabaleshwar. The deity here is at least 1500 years' old. The temple enshrines
Mahabaleshwar, in a square Saligrama Peetha. A small hole in its middle permits
devotees to have a glimpse of the top of the Atma Linga. This Saligrama peetha is taken out once in 60 years for Atma
Linga darshan and the last time it was taken out was in 1983. Gokarna Beach (very near to temple) and Om Beach are the attractions
nearby. After visiting the Gokarna beach
we resumed our journey to Murudeshwar.
 |
| Mahabaleshwara Temple Main Entrance, Gokarna |
How to go: Gokarna is a railway station. Passenger trains halt here. But the
temple is 10 km from railway station.
Alternately, Kumta-Gokarna buses are plenty. But again from Gokarna bus
stand to temple is about 15 minutes’ walk. Kumta is well connected by bus and
train.
MURUDESHWAR
 |
| Murudeshwara Temple |
Murudeshwar
temple is surrounded by the sea on three sides and is on a small hill called
Kanduka Giri. You can see some beautiful carvings and statues, which has a
history that dates back to a few centuries. A 20 storied Gopuram in which there
is a lift that takes you up to 18 stories for aerial viewing. Temple timings
are 6.00 am to 1.00 pm and 3.00 pm to 8.30 pm. But the lift timing is upto 6.00
pm only. Murudeshwara temple which represents a Shiva Linga is believed to have
erupted when Ravana flung the covering of the Atma linga at Gokarna while
extracting it. It is believed that Lord Shiva had declared that Murudeshwar
along with Dhareshwar, Gunavanteshwara, Shejjeshwar and Gokarna temples as the
Pancha Kshetras of Shiva.
Other attractions: Murudeshwar
beach, a huge towering statue of Lord Shiva, which is
erected beside the
temple. This 123 feet statue of Lord Shiva is visible from long distances from
the sea. This Shiva statue is considered as tallest Shiva idol in the world. The
huge fort located nearby the temple.
 |
| Shiva Statue, Murudeshwar |
How to go: Gokarna to Murudeshwar is 65 km by road. Murudeshwar is also a railway station where passenger trains halt. Buses ply from Kumta to Murudeshwar regularly.
First
Day Map is given as link http://goo.gl/Vjvtvm
Day-2
KOLLUR
 |
| Mookambika Temple Entrance, Kollur |
Kollur is situated on the banks of river Sauparnika and
surrounded by thick forest and has a natural formation resembling Sri Chakra.
Kollur is one of the seven mukti places created by Parashurama. The main deity
in the temple is the Jyothirlinga (Shiva linga). This Jyotirlinga is in front
of the idol of the goddess Mookambika. A line of gold divides this linga into
two unequal parts and is only visible in the light reflected sunlight pointed
at the linga. The smallest portion on the right of linga represents Lord
Brahma, Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva and larger left part represent Goddess
Lakshmi, Goddess Saraswati and Goddess Parvati.
Dress
code: Men should not wear upper garment. Dhoti/Pant allowed. No Bermuda or
other fancy dresses.
 |
| Dwajasthamba, Kollur |
It is believed that, Adi Shankaracharya is said to have installed image of the goddess behind the Jyothirlinga. On both sides of Goddess Mookambika are the idols of Kali and Sarasvati. The roof of the temple is made of copper and is gold crested. Soundarya Lahari is also composed here.
Sauparnika
River at Kollur - It is believed that Garuda (Eagle) called 'Suparna' performed
penance on the banks of the river and reached the salvation hence the name
'Sauparnika'. It is also believed as the rivers absorbs elements of 64
different herbs and roots as it flows taking bath in the river cures all
diseases.
How to go: Kollur is in the midst of a
thick forest. Murudeshwar to Kollur is 55 km by road. Byndoor Mookambika Road
is a railway station 30 km from Kollur Mookambika Temple. Only passenger trains
halt. Bhatkal (51 km), Kundapura (40 km) and Udupi (77 km) are other railway
stations.
MARVANTHE BEACH
 |
| Marvanthe Beach |
It is famous but
do not expect Marina or Juhu here. But
the beach is pristine and is situated bang on NH-17 (Panvel-Edapally Highway).
ANEGUDDE GANAPATHI TEMPLE
 |
| Anegudde Ganapathi Temple, Kumbhasi |
One of the best known Ganesha temples in Udupi District is that of Shri
Maha Ganapathi at Anegudde (Kumbhasi). Anegudde is one of the seven ‘Mukti
Sthalas’ (Parashurama Kshetra) in coastal Karnataka. Legend is Kumbhasura tried to disrupt the yagna by troubling sages
performing the yagna. To rescue the sages Lord Ganesha blessed Bheema, the
strongest among the Pandavas (in their exile period) with a sword, using which
Bheema killed the demon and facilitated the completion of the yagna. The name
Anegudde comes from Aane (elephant) and Gudde (hillock), as it is the abode of
the elephant-headed god, Sri Vinayaka.
How to go: Kumbhasi is located on
the NH-17 (now NH-66) at a distance 30 km while going from
Marvanthe to Udupi. Frequent bus service is available from Udupi/Kundapur to Kumbhasi. One
can either walk from Kumbhasi bus stand using the stairs or hire an
autorickshaw to reach Anegudde temple at the top of the hill.
ST. MARY’S ISLAND
 |
| St. Mary's Island, Off Malpe Harbour |
It is located at a distance of 6 km from Udupi. These
islands are just rock projections arising out of the sea near Malpe. The St.
Mary's Island beach is special for the unique formation of basalt rocks that
have crystallized into whole columns and split into vertical hexagonal blocks. The
west coast of these islands is a haven of shellfish with shells of various
shapes and sizes littered along the coast. The island is approximately 300 m
long and 100 m wide and has a few palm trees. The only way to approach these
islands is by boat. Regular boats ply from the Malpe Harbour to the islands but minimum
passengers required are 30. Charges Rs.100 per person for both ways. Maximum time given for tourists in the island
is one hour. Tourist can board the boat directly from Malpe Harbour. But
transferred to a smaller boat to reach St. Mary’s Island.
SREE KRISHNA
TEMPLE, UDUPI
Undoubtedly, the
best time we had was here. Temple is walking
distance of 5 minutes from the hotel we stayed. Went for the evening 7.00 pm to
8.00 pm puja which was attended by about 100 people as per my count.
The
Krishna temple in Udupi, has a fascinating idol of Lord Krishna, which is
richly decorated with jewels. The Krishna temple was founded in 13th century by
famous Vaishnavite saint Sri Madhvacharya. The daily sevas (offerings to the
Lord) and the administration of Krishna Mutt are managed by the Eight Mutts
also referred as Ashta Mathas viz Pejavar mutt, Putige mutt, Phalimaru mutt,
Adamar mutt, Sodhe mutt, Kaneyur mutt, Shirur mutt and Krishnapur mutt. Each of
Ashta Mathas manages Sri Krishna temple for two years in a cyclical order.
During the Paryaya festival, the transfer of authority exclusive rights to
worship and to the administration and management of Lord Krishna temple are
given by one to the other mutt.
 |
| Sree Krishna Temple, Udupi |
The main attraction of Sree Krishna Temple is the 'Kanakana Kindi' (Navagraha Kidki) - a window containing 9 holes through which Krishna is believed to have given darshan to his ardent devotee, Kanakadasa. According to the legend, once Kanakadasa, a devotee of Lord Krishna was not allowed into the temple since he was from a lower caste. Pleased by the worship of Kanakadasa, Lord Krishna miraculously created a small hole in the back wall of the temple and turned to face the hole so that Kanakadasa could see him. This hole came to be known as Kanakana Kindi.
The other temples near Sri Krishna temple are Anantheshwara temple which is believed that King Rama Bhoja, a follower of Lord Parashurama installed the idol of Lord Anantheshwara. Chandramouleshwara temple is built in the place where the moon performed a penance, to get rid of the curse of Daksha Prajapathi. The usual practice in Udupi is to visit Chandramouleshwara temple, Anantheshwara temple and then visit Sree Krishna temple.
Second Day Map is given as link http://goo.gl/oKhY7H
Day-3
SREE KRISHNA
TEMPLE – EARLY MORNING
If the evening
darshan of Lord was delightful, then Vishwarup darshan/Ushakala puja at 3.30 am
to 5.30 am was seen to be believed. There were only 4 persons including us.
Never ever we think could experience such a holy darshan of the Lord Krishna. After
5.00 am regular visitors started coming in.
Dress Code: During vishwarup darshan/maha puja men should wear only
dhoti – no upper garments. But evening shirt/pant allowed. No Bermuda or other fancy dresses.
SRINGERI
 |
| Sri Sharadamba Temple, Sringeri |
Sringeri is a picturesque town in Malnad with rich vegetation and pleasant
climate located in the banks of Holy River Tunga in Chickmagalur district. Sringeri is the first of the four mathas established
by Jagadguru Adi Shankaracharya. According to legend, Sringeri was discovered
by Sri Sankaracharya. While Adi Shankaracharya was walking by the Tunga river,
he saw a cobra with a raised hood, providing shadow from the scorching rays of
the hot sun, to a frog about to spawn. Impressed with the place where natural
enemies had gone beyond their instincts, he selected this place and decided to
stay here and teach his disciples.
 |
| Sri Vidyashankara Temple, Sringeri |
Sri Sharada Temple is
dedicated to Goddess Sharadamba, the Goddess of learning and wisdom. Adi
Shankaracharya installed Goddess of learning, Sri Sharadamba over a Sri Chakra
fixed on a rock on the left bank of river Tunga.
Sri Vidyashankara Temple was built in the year 1338 A.D. in memorial of the pontiff Vidyashankara by Vidyaranya, patron-saint of Harihara and Bukka, the brothers who founded the Vijayanagara Empire. The Vidyashankara temple is a unique monument built entirely of stone combining both Hoysala (Chalukya) and Dravidian architectural styles. The temple architecture is also an exhibition of the astronomical expertise of medieval south Indian temple builders. The main temple hall features 12 pillars designated for the 12 signs of the zodiac in their regular order, and arranged in such a manner that the rays of the sun fall on each of them in the order of the twelve solar months. Windows and doors along the temple walls are arranged such that equinox’s sunrise views reach the deity.
Sri Vidyashankara Temple was built in the year 1338 A.D. in memorial of the pontiff Vidyashankara by Vidyaranya, patron-saint of Harihara and Bukka, the brothers who founded the Vijayanagara Empire. The Vidyashankara temple is a unique monument built entirely of stone combining both Hoysala (Chalukya) and Dravidian architectural styles. The temple architecture is also an exhibition of the astronomical expertise of medieval south Indian temple builders. The main temple hall features 12 pillars designated for the 12 signs of the zodiac in their regular order, and arranged in such a manner that the rays of the sun fall on each of them in the order of the twelve solar months. Windows and doors along the temple walls are arranged such that equinox’s sunrise views reach the deity.
 |
| Jagadguru Adhistana |
The matha at Sringeri is known as Sringeri Sharada Peetham. It is one of the four Hindu Advaita maths established by Jagadguru Adi Shankaracharya. It is also called to as Dakshinamnaya Sringeri Sharada peetam. On the day we visited Jagadguru Sri Bharati Theertha Swamiji was in camp. Sringeri has guest houses run by the temple administration. Temple guest houses are available to stay. Lunch and Dinner is provided daily for the visitors.
Jagadguru nivas is
across Tunga river beside the Sharadamba Temple. The bridge to cross closes at
12.00 noon. Sringeri (81 km from Udupi) can be
reached via Udupi-Agumbe highway passing through a ghat section containing 15
hairpin bends.
Third Day Map is given as link http://goo.gl/kCJBng
Day-4
DHARMASTHALA
Shree Kshetra Dharmasthala, the Holy Land, situated 100
km from Udupi by road. Lord Shiva (Supreme) worshipped as Lord Manjunatheshwara.
The temple houses a shiva linga of gold. It is believed that Shiva linga was
brought by Lord Annappa from a place called Kadri near Mangalore. The temple is unusual in that this Shaiva
kshetra is headed by a Jain administration and pujas are conducted by Vaishnava
priests.
Dharmasthala pilgrim centre located on the banks
of river Nethravathi in Belthangady Taluk of Dakshina Kannada (South Canara) District. Main Temple consists of Shri
Manjunatheshwara, Shri Ammanavaru, Four Dharma Daivas viz Kalarahu, Kalarkaayi,
Kanyakumari and Kumaraswamy, Lord Ganapathi and Lord Annappa.
 |
| Sri Manjunatheshwara Temple, Dharmasthala |
Sri Kshetra is known for Annadaana, Vidyadaana, Aushadadaana and Abhayadaana. Free boarding and lodging with modern facilities are provided to all visitors. There are six modern guest houses Netravathi, Vaishali, Sharavathi, Gayatri, Gangotri and Saket along with Ganga, Kaveri and Narmada (old guest houses). Advanced mechanized and clean kitchen provides free food for all pilgrims at Annapoorna Choultry.
Important Note: Photography not allowed/Mobile to be switched off; bags and luggage should
be kept outside the queue starting place. Dress
code: Men and children above 2 years should not wear upper
garment inside the sanctum premises. Dhoti/Pant allowed. No Bermuda or other
fancy dresses.
DR. SHIVARAM KARANTH ZOOLOGICAL PARK, PILIKULAM, MANGALORE
It is a zoo as usually found
in many important cities. But it has got
many rare species. It is the only zoo recognized as a breeding centre for King
Cobras. It is also functioning as a rescue centre for wounded wild life.
SOMESHWARA
BEACH, ULLAL
It is again one of the
pristine beaches in the area. Someshwar Beach is located at a distance of 9 Km to the south of Mangalore
and 0.5 km from Someshwar Bus Stand. Someshwar beach is well known for the
large rocks called "Rudra Shile". The other attraction
of Someshwar beach is the historical Somanath temple constructed during the
rule of the famous queen Abbakka Devi is situated in the north side.
Fourth Day Map is given as
link http://goo.gl/AtAvjV
We later in the night caught
Nethravati Express for our journey back to Mumbai.
*****
