Great Rann Of Kutch 2012

Ever since Mr. Keith Francis introduced me to Nature India two years back, I had a fascination about Great Rann of Kutch (GRK) due to its rich history. When Nature India announced GRK trip in October 2011, I immediately registered for it. The trip started at afternoon of 17^th January 2011 and reached Bhuj in the morning at 7.30 am IST.  It was a cold morning (6 degree Celsius) and our local expert Mr. Mangal Darji along with Mama were waiting with two Force Trax to receive us.

18th January 2012

We started our journey immediately to our base camp at Nakhatrana (50 km from Bhuj). On the way we had a Kutchi breakfast (Pafda, Jalebi, Bajia and Coffee) where our first sightings of birds started. At Lunch time we returned to Hotel JP for a delicious Kutch Lunch. Again Left for Shrub Forest for birding.
  

Laughing Dove

Sykes's Lark

We tried and waited for Marshal's Iora and White Naped Tit. Unfortunately they were very busy and could not give us time. Returned after 9 pm IST to Hotel JP for our dinner. After dinner Mandar and Adesh reviewed about the birds which we saw. Ace birders gave a brief account of each and every bird through a question/answer session. Incidentally there were 8 first timers to Great Rann of Kutch like me. 

Birds we saw on 18.1.2012 

Chestnut bellied Sandgrouse

Common Babbler, Rock Pigeon (which we see in our buildings & nearby trees), Bank Myna, Wire- tailed swallow, Red-rumped Swallow, Green Bee-eater, Yellow crowned Woodpecker, House Sparrow, Common Kestrel, Rufous-tailed Shrike, Bay-backed Shrike, Laughing Dove. Southern Grey Shrike, Blue-throat, Isabeline Wheatear, Short-toed Snake Eagle, Black-headed Ibis, Indian Roller, Indian Nightjar, Common Moorhen, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Brown Rock-chat, Rosy Starling, Grey-breasted Prinia, Rufous-tailed Lark, Greater Short-toed Lark, Sykes’ Lark, Chestnut-shouldered Petronia, Tawny Pipit, Indian Silver Bill, Grey-necked Bunting.

19th January 2012

Red vented Bulbul

We started very early and drove to Fullay village, where our local expert joined us. This village also produces Charcoal for use by locals. We saw Grey hypocolious that is only reported in India at Fullay Village. It eats the Meswak leaves/flowers which is abundant in Fullay village. We had to wait for more than an hour to spot this bird. Then we started our journey to Chari Dhand. On the way we stopped for our breakfast (Poha with Kutch flavour - which we carried from the Hotel) at the Forest Guest House which is being built (Portions are under construction). 


Later we saw fossils at a nearby hill. This whole area used to be a sea million years ago. Fossil Shells, conchs, etc are the proof of this. Common cranes were plenty in this area. We travelled to Hodka village for Kutch Lunch. Instead of writing on this subject, I attach some photographs to see for yourself.  

Hodka Rogan Art

Hodka Dining Hut

Hodka Huts

As the time flew, we trudged our way back to see other birds on the itinerary. We saw Flamingos in hoards in the distant wetland. On the way we saw Egret, Raptor, Pallid Harrier, White Stork, etc.

Red tailed Wheatear

Desert Wheatear

We continued our journey from Chari Dhand on the edge of Banni Grasslands through the desert wilderness.  The way was so confusing, that it requires an ace driver/local expert else would be lost forever even in day time.  We saw lots of camels, jackal, flamingos, cattle egret, spoon bill, chinkara, chestnut bellied sandgrouse, etc. An unexplained, strange phenomenon known locally as Chir Batti (Ghost Lights) occur here in the dark nights, in the Banni Grasslands. It is also visible in the Banni seasonal marshy wetlands and in the adjoining desert of the marshy flats. After witnessing the sunset, we waited with bated breath for the dancing lights phenomenon in the middle of the desert.  It was an awesome sight after 8 pm IST. The lights started in the distant horizon taking turns. Our local expert said it confuses the traveller in the nights so much so that it will lead you no where if you are lost in the desert.  He also explained that our vehicles were the only ones and we crossed no vehicle in the vicinity of 15-20 kilometers.  

Sun set at Chari Dhand, Bhuj

On our way back, Dr. Muthu got a superb photo of Nightjar, as our group missed the chance.  We had the satisfaction of seeing the Nightjar on other two occasions. After witnessing the Chir Batti, we left for our Hotel and reached around 9.45 pm IST. The dinner at the Hotel was excellent. Later we discussed and revised about the sightings and went to bed.

Birds we saw on 19.1.2012 

Grey Francolin, Common Quail, Barred Button Quail, Northern Shoveler, Common Hoopoe, Green Bee Eater, Sirkir Malkoha, Short-eared Owl, Sykes Nightjar, Eurasian Collared Dove, Common Crane, Chestnut bellied Sandgrouse, Eurasian Thick-Knee, Red Wattled Lapwing,  Black shouldered Kite, Eurasian Marsh Harrier, Pallid harrier, Montago's Harrier, Shikra, Eurasian Sparrow-hawk, Long legged Buzzard, Greater Spotted Eagle, Steppe Eagle, Little Cormorant, Cattle Egret, Greater Flamingo, Black Ibis, Dalmatian pelican, Painted Stark, White Stark, Black necked stark, Red-backed Shrike, Roufous Tailed Shrike, Black Drongo, Variable Wheatear, Desert Wheatear, Read-tailed Wheatear, Rosy Starling, White-eared Bulbul, Gray Hypocolius, Graceful Prinia, Paddy Field Warbler, Crested Lark, Yellow Wagtail, Long billed pipit,

Red Wattled Lapwing

Rufous tailed Shrike

Common Cranes

20th January 2012

Pied Kingfisher

Black headed Bunting

Again early morning we left for Naliya Grass lands to see Great Indian Bustard.  This time Mr. Prakash, the Hotel Owner also joined our group for birding.  On our way there was a reasonably large pond where we saw 15 types of birds in one go. It was good start for that day.We saw yellow crowned woodpecker (Maratha woodpecker), Stoliczka's Bushchat, etc. On the deserted (asphalted road) we had our breakfast (Aloo Paratha with Dahi) which we packed from the Hotel.  Unfortunately Bustards were not be seen in the Great Indian Bustard Sanctuary.     We spotted Eurasian Wry-neck behind the Hotel where we had our lunch.  All the hell broke loose.  Everybody was excited and it took lot of time to locate the bird because of its camouflage. After our Lunch, on our way to grasslands, we waited for Stoliczka's Bushchat which was spotted by Adesh. We saw Chinkara, Nilgai, even Jackal at a distance.  We stopped at a watch tower, (three storied), where Adesh explained the types of mud nests and shown us the difference. At Naliya Grass lands where unfortunately we could not see Bustards. Instead we saw Red necked Falcon, White Stork, etc. 

Shikra

Eurasian Wryneck

Cattle Egret

Birds we saw on 20.1.2012 

Black Ibis

Citrine Wagtail

Black headed Bunting, Citrine Wagtail, White Wagtail, Bimaculated Lark, Ashy-crowned Sparrow Lark, Indian Bush Lark, Roufous fronted prinia, Dusky Crag Martin, Common Myna, Pied Bushchat, Common Stonechat, Stoliczka's Bushchat, White bellied Minivet, Small Minivet, Eurasian Spoon Bill, Glossy Ibis, Black Ibis, Indian Pond Heron, Intermediate Egret, Grey Heron, Red-necked Falcon, Booted Eagle, Imperial Eagle, Temminck's Stint, Common Snype, Pied Kingfisher, Common Kingfisher, Eurasian Wryneck, Garganey, Common Teal, Comb Duck, Black Francolin

21st January 2012

Spotted Owlet

On the last day of our trip, after packing our bags we started our trip to Mandvi Seashore which is on the southern tip of Bhuj district. On our way we saw Spotted Owlet near a canal bridge. I was fortunate to have a photograph of this bird.  We saw Ducks, Oriental Honey Buzzard.  On the side of the road, a mongoose family was spotted. Before we could stop and take a look, the pups went into hiding leaving the mother guarding them. We had our breakfast (picnic style) on a field adjacent to the road. Resumed our journey to the coast. When we were about to pass the Town to the shore we crossed the creek where there were lot of birds including Reef Egret, Wryneck, Plover, etc. All the on-lookers were asking us from where you have come? with curiosity.  We reached the sea shore after spending good time spotting birds. The sand at the  seashore looked hard but our feet sank up to ankle level every step. Reached the spot where we could see Eurasian Oyster Catcher, Black-headed Gull, Gull-billed Tern. Adesh and Mandar explained us about the difference between similar looking bird species. Mangal and Mama brought the vehicles to another spot from where we boarded the vehicle for our journey back to Hotel for the lunch. 

Birds we saw on 21.1.2012

Reef Egret

Mongoose

Lesser Whistling Duck, Mallard, Spot billed Duck, White-throated Kingfisher, Rose ringed   parakeet, Spotted Owlet, Demoiselle Crane, Black tailed Godwit, Whimbrel, Eurasian Curlew, Common Red Shank, Marsh Sandpiper, Common Green Shank, Wood Sandpiper, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Common Sandpiper, Dunlin, Curlew Sandpiper, Ruff, Eurasian Oyster Catcher, Black winged Stilt, Grey Plover, Little Ringed Plover, Lesser Sand Plover, Greater Sand plover, Heuglin's Gull, Palla's Gull, Brown-headed Gull, Black-headed Gull, Gull-billed Tern, Caspian Tern, River Tern, Lesser crested Tern, Osprey, Little Grebe, Darter, Little Egret, Western Reef Egret, Great Egret, Black crowned Night Heron, Lesser Flamingo, House Crow, Redvented Bulbul, Zitting Cisticola, Common Tailor bird, Hume's Lesser Whitethroat, Baya weaver, 

Oriental Honey Buzzard

Last Hurrah

After having Lunch, we checked out from the Hotel, and as a surprise move, Adesh told us that we will be going to have one last go to see the White naped Tit which was elusive all the three days.  We went to Pot-Mahadev and tried our luck.  Mandar and Adesh went different places and started giving bird call in the hope that it will be visible. Suddenly Adesh called Mandar along with Riyaz, Ameya and all were to check a particular bush.  We were surrounding from all the sides.  White naped Tit flew from a tree hole at arm's length of Adesh.  Every body started in hushed tones, it is there, it is here. Nobody was ready to leave the spot.  The light was dipping very fast.  After much discussion and coming to a conclusion that it will not come again until we move out, we grudgingly boarded the vehicles for our journey back to Bhuj to catch the Train.  Adesh was devastated (if I put it right) as he was hopeful that he will show the bird to us in his last attempt.  But he rightly said we must accept the privacy of the birds and try our luck next time. We reached Bhuj around 9.00 pm IST. Had Kutchi Dabeli, Milk Shakes, Ice Cream as our dinner and reached the station around 9.45 pm IST.  Adesh thanked the group, Mangal & Mama for their ever willing help even in small things and boarded the train back to Mumbai.

Sunset at Pot-Mahadev, Bhuj

Note: 

1. Red-lettered names indicates photograph.

2. If any of the caption is wrong kindly intimate me as I am first timer.

3. First timers interested in birding please note that you should have lots of patience to see, photograph, check and write the details. Combining photography and taking notes will require lot of time management. 

4. A good binocular (preferably 7 x 50) is must for bird watching

5. Send mail to chandar1999@yahoo.com for high resolution photographs featured in this blog.

Acknowledgements:

Mr. Adesh Shivkar, Mr. Mandar Khadilkar - for excellent guiding, arrangements and telescope.

Mr. Riyaz Amin, Dr. Muthu Narayanan - for maximum bird spotting.

Mr. Ameya Ketkar,  Ms. Rujuta Phadke - for telescope.

Cdr (Retd) GVK Unnithan, Capt (Retd) Haridasan, Mr. Jayaram, Mr.Narendra Athnikar, Ms. Malini Kaushik, Ms. Michelle Wadhwani, Ms. Jayanti, Ms. Sonal Athnikar,  Ms. Rama Bishnoi - for helping to note down the names of birds.

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